Next time it will be a non issue and you will have all solid rivets. I will add the link when I find it.ĭon't try to remove this cherry max without reviewing the proper process or you WILL regret it.īTW - get a full assortment of rivets, sizes and lengths. IIRC, they first step is to center punch, then drill right at the top, then take a pick and remove the steel locking collar at the top, punch out the core, then drill further, pop off the head, and the whole thing will fall out. Removing a Cherry Max is a piece of cake. If you need assistance with available sizes and hole diameters, send me a PM. If after that you still have a decent hole, shoot an AD5 rivet in it, or plan for the correct Cherrymax. If you can, hold the "tail" side with small vise grips and grind the head down with a dremel, or small grinder. The bulbed CherryLOCK® rivet is a complete shear fastening system. They conform to Procurement Specification NAS1740 and Standards Pages NAS1738 and NAS1739. Its going to spin, fight and infuriate you until you end up with a 1/4" hole. BULBED CHERRYLOCK® RIVET RIVET SELECTION Bulbed CherryLOCK® rivets are locked spindle and flush fracturing structural rivets. If the locking collar has seated, drilling it is a task in itself. The next problem you have is removing it. N and Q rivets can easily be installed with any commercial blind rivet tool, but CherryMAX and CherryLOCK rivets are best installed with a special tool designed just for these stronger rivets. They aren't a hole filling fastener, and need to be in the correct size/length hole. Other makings on the rivet head, such as small raised or depressed dimples or small raised. Ok, in short, the Cherrymax are very "size critical" and come in Nominal, 1st over and 2nd over size. On many rivets, a size in 32nds may be stamped on the rivet head.
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